Izabal is located on the Caribbean coast, Guatemala’s gateway to the Atlantic. INE’s 2018 census counted 408,688 people in the department; population projections for later years differ from that count (2026 figures). It is known for the Rio Dulce canyon, Livingston’s Garifuna culture, and Lake Izabal. The department capital is Puerto Barrios.
What to Expect
Izabal feels like a completely different country from the rest of Guatemala. The air is thick and humid, the vegetation is tropical and tangled, and the cultural mix – Garifuna, Q’eqchi’ Maya, Ladino, and a small expat sailing community – gives the region a Caribbean character you will not find anywhere else in the country. The temperature hovers around 30-35 degrees Celsius year-round, and rain can arrive in sudden, heavy downpours any month, though the wettest period runs from June through October.
The boat ride from Rio Dulce town to Livingston is one of Guatemala’s great experiences. The river narrows into a canyon with limestone walls draped in jungle, herons and kingfishers working the shallows, and hot springs seeping into the cool water along the banks. Livingston itself has no road access – you arrive by lancha from Puerto Barrios or down the river, and that isolation has preserved its unique Garifuna identity. The food here is unlike anything in highland Guatemala: tapado is the signature dish, a rich coconut milk soup loaded with fish, shrimp, crab, and plantain. On weekend nights you can hear punta drumming from the Garifuna barrios.
Rio Dulce town, at the point where the river meets Lake Izabal, is a hub for international sailors who keep their boats in the river’s marinas; the clearance steps, the boat’s customs and stay permits and the marinas’ published rates are in our guide to sailing to Río Dulce. The river is not out of hurricane reach: the Caribbean coast of Izabal is, with northern Petén, the part of Guatemala most exposed to direct Atlantic hurricane tracks (see our hurricane season guide). The Castillo de San Felipe sits at this junction – a small Spanish colonial fort built in the 1600s to fend off pirates who raided the lake settlements. Lake Izabal itself is the largest lake in Guatemala, and while it does not get the tourist traffic of Lake Atitlan, it has its own quiet appeal. Puerto Barrios, the capital, is a working port city and the main gateway if you are heading to Belize by boat. The highway from Guatemala City (CA-9) is a solid, well-maintained road and the drive takes about four to five hours.
The cost, safety and internet figures in the Key Stats section are our own map ratings and estimates, not official or sourced figures. For detailed cost comparisons across Guatemala, see our cost of living guide. Check the latest exchange rates and gas prices for budgeting.
Izabal offers 8 notable attractions and 4 annual festivals that showcase its cultural heritage. Key highlights include: Caribbean coast, Río Dulce, Livingston, Garifuna culture. For more information about staying safe while exploring, visit our safety guide.
Top Municipalities to Visit
- Livingston — Guatemala’s Garifuna Caribbean town, accessible only by boat. Unique Afro-Caribbean culture, tapado coconut seafood soup, Rio Dulce canyon boat trip, and Playa Blanca.
Nearby Departments
Eastern: Zacapa
Northern: Alta Verapaz | Peten
Book Tours & Activities
Rio Dulce boat trips, Livingston excursions, and Caribbean coast adventures can be arranged in advance:
Explore More Data
- Activities & Things to Do – Explore activities and tours
- Safety Guide – Read our detailed safety guide
- Exchange Rates – Today’s exchange rate
- Cost of Living – Compare living costs
- Remittances – Best remittance rates
- Gas Prices – Fuel prices by department
- Canasta Basica – Basic food basket costs
- Weather – Climate and weather data