Retalhuleu is located on the Pacific lowlands of southwestern Guatemala. INE’s 2018 census counted 326,828 people in the department; population projections for later years differ from that count (2026 figures). It is known for the IRTRA Xetulul and Xocomil theme parks, and its warm tropical climate. The department capital is Retalhuleu.
What to Expect
Nobody in Guatemala calls it Retalhuleu. Everyone says “Reu” (pronounced like “Ray-oo”), and if you tell someone you are heading there, the first thing they will ask is whether you are going to Xocomil. The IRTRA theme parks – Xocomil (water park) and Xetulul (theme park) – are genuinely world-class attractions that would surprise anyone expecting a modest Central American amusement park. Xetulul’s architecture replicates ancient Maya temples, colonial churches, and European plazas at full scale, and Xocomil’s wave pools and waterslides rival anything in the region. Guatemalan families plan trips here months in advance, and the IRTRA resort hotels fill up fast during Semana Santa and school holidays. If you are visiting, book well ahead and go on a weekday if possible.
Beyond the parks, Reu has a quieter charm. The town center has a pleasant central plaza with old colonial buildings, and the local market is worth a morning visit for tropical fruit you will not find easily elsewhere – zapote, nance, and cacao pods sold straight from nearby farms. The department was historically one of the main cacao-growing regions in Mesoamerica, and you can still find small producers making traditional chocolate drinks. Head south toward the coast and you will find mangrove estuaries perfect for boat tours, where you can spot herons, iguanas, and the occasional crocodile sunning on a mudbank.
The climate here is relentlessly hot and tropical – expect temperatures above 30 degrees Celsius year-round. The road from Quetzaltenango drops rapidly from cool highland air into Reu’s lowland heat in about 45 minutes, a dramatic transition that catches first-time visitors off guard. The main highway (CA-2 Pacific) connecting Reu to the rest of the coast is in reasonable shape, though side roads to the mangroves and smaller villages can be rough during the rainy season. Since June 2026, the new Xochi toll highway ends just east of Reu at San Andrés Villa Seca, putting Xocomil and Xetulul within a fast ~30-minute run on the CA-2 instead of hours stuck in Mazatenango traffic. Rubber and sugar plantations line most routes, and the sweet smell of processing cane hangs in the air during harvest months.
The cost, safety and internet figures in the Key Stats section are our own map ratings and estimates, not official or sourced figures. For detailed cost comparisons across Guatemala, see our cost of living guide. Check the latest exchange rates and gas prices for budgeting.
Retalhuleu offers 6 notable attractions and 4 annual festivals that showcase its cultural heritage. Key highlights include: IRTRA Xocomil, Hot coast, Agriculture, Family tourism. For more information about staying safe while exploring, visit our safety guide.
Nearby Departments
Pacific Coast: Suchitepequez
Western Highlands: Quetzaltenango | San Marcos
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- Activities & Things to Do – Explore activities and tours
- Safety Guide – Read our detailed safety guide
- Exchange Rates – Today’s exchange rate
- Cost of Living – Compare living costs
- Remittances – Best remittance rates
- Gas Prices – Fuel prices by department
- Canasta Basica – Basic food basket costs
- Weather – Climate and weather data